There is a sleepy little village in Japan that’s like no other spots in Asia. It’s magical and unique. No, it doesn’t have foggy peaking mountains and castles, nor do fairies live there. Not that I have seen anyway. It’s a nondescript town with 5000 residents, many of whom are expats or married to one. There is one large inactive volcanic mountain called Yotei that surfaces from the clouds on a clear day. It’s probably the only place in Japan where you can get away without speaking a word of Japanese because almost everyone there speaks English.
Niseko downtown, Momoko the Poo
During its peak ski season, this is the place to see and to be seen. This is the Hamptons of Asia. Anyone who might be cast in “Crazy Rich Asians” from all over Asia own a vacation home here. But most come here to just relax, eat, ski, and take in the beautiful nature and powder snow. While many of these luxury homes are owned by Hong Kong expats and locals, in recent years, its unique setting has attracted the wealthy and the glamorous from China, Thailand, Singapore, Indonesia, Philippines.. Jack Ma of Alibaba, The Red Bull family, you name it, they are there.
However, it’s not the glitzy Hamptons as one might think, as mentioned, it’s a simple undeveloped village. It’s a strange sight to witness the disparity of a small village with high net worth tourists flaunting their fur coat, which by the way is the only place they can wear it because most of them live in tropical countries, and stylishly strutting their form fitting Monclers. And there’s plenty of novice skiers who are slowly gliding down the bunny slopes in their fancy Phenix outfits. They look good…at least.
So why do the rich and famous people of Asia congregate here?
When you drive around the village and its environs, you will understand the reason for the craze for Niseko. There are hidden gems in almost every corner. It might be a famous yet obscure soba joint, a container sandwich shop whose owner is the only employee and cures his own cold cuts, the most delicious oven baked pizza outside of Italy, a bar with a fridge door as an entrance door…. And inevitably, you will find a spectacular collection of architecture that will knock your ski pants off.
Teuchi-Soba Ichimura, Niseko Sanroku Parlor, Niseko Sanroku Parlor BLT sandwich, Pizza DelSole
Bar Gyu
This sleepy little village is about to have an awakening from its slumber. Developers from all over the world are recognizing its potential and pouring investment into this up and coming ski resort town. It is located in the province of Hokkaido, one of the northern islands of Japan and it is southwest of Sapporo. Hokkaido is known for its fresh seafood, flavorful produce and delectable Japanese snacks such as Royce chocolate and Le Tao cheesecake. I still remember the first time I arrived at New Chitose airport in Sapporo four years ago and saw all the amazing snacks which cost a fraction in Hokkaido and grabbed everything in sight. We have learned to behave with more self control after the first trip, but you can clearly tell which tourists are on their first trip to Hokkaido by the number of bags they leave the duty free airport shops.
We were fortunate enough to have been invited by friends who built their dream home in Niseko. We heard about Niseko for the 6 years we had been living in Hong Kong. Many of my friends would dash off to Niseko to ski for Chinese New Year. It seemed like an expensive unreachable trip we could not afford. But we took the opportunity to stay with my friends upon their invitation and decided to splurge. And boy, was it worth the splurge.
We’ve been back every year ever since for skiing. It’s the only place in Asia where I have returned more than twice besides Korea, my motherland. Living as an expat in Hong Kong, we have taken the opportunity to explore many parts of Asia. Cambodia, Vietnam, Thailand, the Philippines, Japan, Korea, Taiwan, and many parts China. We’ve experienced immense beauty and awe of nature, and since I am Korean American, we have naturally returned to Korea at every chance we get. But returning to Niseko was not in our cards. I don’t like to return to the same place more than once unless it’s an absolutely special place like Niseko. And perhaps I feel a special connection to the province because this is where my mother was born. That’s a story for another blog though.
I have experienced snow growing up in Korea and the east coast, but the Niseko snow was something else. In New York, the snow is pretty when it falls down. Then the brown, muddy after math… that’s not so pretty. But the Niseko snow is like no other. One day I just sipped on my tea and became hypnotized by the snow. I had never seen such pretty flaky snow in my life. It seemed like pieces of fluffy cottony clouds were torn into small pieces and were dancing to Chopin’s spring waltz. And how pretty do they land and stay! It was a mesmerizing sight to behold. I had never experienced this kind of beautiful snow. The kind you can just watch for hours.
The skiing is phenomenal although I am told that backcountry skiing is even better. Backpacking professional skiers and snowboarders from all over the world frequent Niseko for its unique quality powder. The Siberian wind and the humid air from the ocean meet to form the perfect powder that the skiers salivate over. I grew up skiing on the east coast. It’s not my favorite sport by any means. I remember falling and bruising all over my body, and I hate the cold! So Niseko had to offer a unique experience for me to want to go back again and gain. Even as a novice skier, I sometimes dream of gliding through the powder. It feels like you are literally floating on a cloud, and even when I fall, I fall on fluff! That said, I’ve seen plenty of snow ambulances carry skiers away. But the fall is definitely not as painful as it is on the east coast.
Besides arguably the best snow in the world and fantastic food, there’s another reason the tourists frequent this ski resort or make it their second home. It’s the whole package. Where else can you ski on pretty much guaranteed powder snow then be served a hot ramen lunch after weathering the below zero degrees frigid weather? After a full day of skiing, a visit to the hot outdoor onsen awaits to relax your muscles. A ski experience can’t get any better than this. I understood the reason expats from HK came back every year. Some tourists skip skiing altogether and relish in the culinary and onsen experience.
Crab Ramen, Hanazono Resort
Niseko Konbu onsen
For me there is an added layer of fascination for this place as an architect. I’ve never been to a sleepy little village with so many architectural treasures. It’s like a plain wooden music box that unexpectedly plays the most beautiful melody. You turn every corner and wonder, “where did this come from?, Who designed this?” Unexpected surprises pop up every corner. The exteriors of these modern homes are humble yet detailed. It’s an architect’s museum where you can imagine your dream design being realized.
Cloud Nine
Shirofukuro
Yukikage
Kitadori
Yukihyo
Yukihyo
The houses’ interiors are another visual feast as the exterior’s reflection with simple lines and attention to details. These simple yet effortless details are the stuff of architects’ dreams which rarely get realized in the usual suburban homes. But here in Niseko, these trophy homes are an architect’s playground. The practical details such as radiant heating and heated toilet seats are a standard in every home. There is something incredibly welcoming about stepping into a genkan, an entry foyer for shoe removal, and the first step is warm to the touch. It feels like you are home at every home. Not to mention the fact that you can dry off your boots in no time!
I can’t even tell you how many houses I’ve visited where I have been “wowed”. I have visited many architectural monuments, did the whole Italy, France, Spain backpacking architectural tours, and visited the temples of Angkor Watt and the temples in Korea that have not even been documented. But every time I walk into these houses, I am impressed. Impressed by the warmth, the attention to detail, and the luxury without the excess. Coming from Hong Kong where the Chinese tend to have an affinity for opulent luxury aka cheesy architecture, this is a refreshing change.
KOA
Yukikage
Yukikage Foxwood, KOA,
Many of these houses if not all were built by the trendsetter of this region. He is a 60 yer old Australian pioneer who settled down in Niseko after his hospitality business burned down in the bushfire in Australia 18 years go. He had visited Niseko for skiing a few times, and he loved the obscure resort town so much that decided to settle down without knowing the Japanese language. Despite his limited Japanse language, he has managed to earn the trust of the locals and the international clientele alike. He is the forerunner and the most trusted source for the Niseko real estate market because he curated it all.
Simon Robinson has built a small empire in Niseko from scratch in the last 18 years starting with the construction of the first mid range condo building called First Tracks. He then invested in several other projects including the iconic Glass House, the first residential luxury house of its kind in the village. After the economic crisis of 2010, he changed his business model to a total service model. It encompasses Property Management, Real Estate Sales and Marketing, and Project management. He didn’t see the viability of real estate development model in 2010, then the tsunami hit Japan and everything came crashing down. He saved the company by transforming it into a fresh new model, and recruited expats and English speaking Japanese staff, many who were married to expats.
Glass House
Believe it or not, this little village attracts quite a few western educated and expat population that enables Simon to run a competitive business with an unprecedented business model.
His company, Hokkaido Tracks is the most successful real estate company in Niseko, and anyone who is interested in investing in Niseko talks to Simon. If you meet Simon, you will see why people want to meet him more than once. Despite his status as the mover and shaker of the Niseko market, he is incredibly humble and sincere. He will offer any information you want and considers it friendly advice. Some clients may choose to work with another source, but most of them return to Simon after dealing with a few other professionals who can’t offer his depth expertise of Niseko and his cordial professionalism. Simon lives and breaths Niseko, and anyone who wants to partake in it can’t help but meet Simon more than once. If you met him at a bar you’d never know this man created the Niseko it is today by harnessing the dreams and financial resources of the Hong Kongese and other influential Asians. He will never tell you he injected his keen sense of esthetic taste into every one of the stunning houses by curating a team of architects, contractors, and project management team who foresaw every step of the design and construction to ensure his clients’ vision becomes a reality.
Maybe it was not his intention, but it has become Hokkaido Tracks’s Niseko. Don’t let anyone else tell you differently. Come see it for yourself.
The Escarpment Estate is a collection of 15 beautiful housing sites and currently has 10 completed custom homes ranging in values from 3.5mill USD to 20mill USD and is the most coveted address in Niseko.
Escarpment Estate
Niseko is one of the places I dream of returning when the travel ban lifts, and we are free to roam around in search of the unexpected treasures hidden in a simple little village.
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